Weingut H. u. M. Hofer 2004 Weinviertel Grner Veltliner Trocken ($10.99) This is a very pale straw-color wine with a tinge of brassy green. White fruit aromas, citric and limey, are pleasant if a bit on the delicate side. Simple but fresh flavors are consistent with the nose, crisp citrus, medium body and zippy acidity. I don't find much in the way of Grner minerality as the vine is first poured, but a bit of pleasant "woolly" character develops as the wine warms in the glass. FOOD MATCH: Food-friendly GV works with veal, pork, poultry and seafood, and it's becoming a go-to wine for spicy Southeast Asian fare. It went beautifully with the bold flavors of veal polpette fashioned as "Italian cheeseburgers," shaped to fit squares of home-baked sage foccacia and topped with Point Reyes Blue. (Best Value 2006 Robin Garr: WineLovers.com)

Country: Austria Grape Varietal: Riesling Type: Still wine 

Domne Wachau 2002 "Terrassen" Wachau Riesling Federspiel ($11.99) This wine from Freie Weingrtner shows a clear, light brass color. Characteristic aromas of apple and pine add a distinct, minerally touch of Riesling "petrol." Mouth-filling flavors follow the nose, fresh and clean; steely acidity wraps it all up in a long finish. FOOD MATCH: A versatile food wine with lighter meats, seafood or a range of vegetarian dishes. It was fine with alder-smoked salmon accompanied by wasabi-laced mashed potatoes. (Best Value 2006 Robin Garr WineLovers.com)

Freie Weingrtner 2004 Wachau Riesling ($11.99) This clear, pale straw-color wine breathes lovely, minerally Riesling aromas of white flowers and musky melons and that intriguing slatey, clean-earth character that wine lovers describe as "petrol." Bone-dry flavors are consistent with the aroma, "rainwater" minerality and musky white fruit over a core of steely acidity. Tart citrus and melon and subtle minerality linger in a very long finish. FOOD MATCH: Perfect with the fried smelt featured in the March 2, 2006 30 Wine Advisor FoodLetter. (Best Value 2006 Robin Garr WineLovers.com)